I get this question often and it's always the same situation:...
derek guy@dieworkwear
105 views
Oct 21, 2024
~6 min read
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I get this question often and it's always the same situation: someone is attending a wedding, sometimes their own, and they want a custom suit. I can't stress enough that you should NOT get a custom suit. At least try ready to wear first. I will explain. 🧵
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First, some definitions. A ready to wear suit (RTW) is what you find when you go into a clothing store. It's the stuff that's on the rack that you can pick up, try on, and most importantly, put back on the rack if you don't like it.
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Some of these shops will made to order programs (MTO). That means that, if you like their RTW suits but want something slightly different—say, a unique cloth or a different pocket style—they can produce a one-off just for you with that modification. The fit, however, is the same.
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Then there's made to measure (MTM). In this process, a new pattern is created for you. The term pattern doesn't refer to the design of a fabric. It refers to the architectural blueprint of the garment, which determines the fit and silhouette.
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In a MTM process, this pattern is made by adjusting a pre-existing block pattern using a computer aided design program (CAD). The garment is produced straight to finish and you come in for one fitting. At that fitting, you try on the garment and they make small adjustments.
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This process can be fine if you're close to the block pattern. But if you're very far from the block, there will be compromises. The result can be like what you see below, which is made worse because The Rock choose a fabric that shows all the faults.
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Every problem here is highlighted bc the fabric doesn't drape well. Here we see a diagonal line near his armpit. This is caused by the fact that the jacket's shoulder slope doesn't match The Rock's shoulder slope. If he raised his shoulder, this line would disappear.
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This problem is exacerbated by the fact that many MTM clothiers, especially on the lower end of the price range, have built trends into their patterns. This means slim suits with short jackets. As a result, you get guys who often come out looking egg shaped even if they're not.
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The suit on the left is by Thom Browne and I suspect it was MTM to fit the wearer (if not, it's at least an example of what many block patterns look like). Imagine paying ~$2k and ending up with an outfit like this. Compare the silhouette to the King of Spain. Horrifying.
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One way to avoid this is to find a MTM clothier with "try on suits," which are ready-made garments produced in the block pattern. See if you like the silhouette on you. Determine how much you need to change to the block to get a good fit. The less you change, the better.
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The next step up is bespoke, which means a tailor (technically cutter) drafts a completely new pattern for you from scratch (although many tailoring houses now also work with blocks, they should theoretically draft a new pattern from scratch if you need).
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Bespoke is done with a completely new, individualized pattern and then the garment is made through an iterative series of fittings (typically three—basted, forward, and final). During this process, you and the tailor can see how the garment is coming along.
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Think of it like sketching. The fittings are like making a rough sketch, fitting you in the garment to see how it hangs, adjusting it a little, fitting it on you to see how it hangs, and then filling in the lines more. Theoretically, this should lead to better results.
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Of course, theory is different from practice. It's very possible to get a bad garment from a MTM or bespoke tailor. Maybe you choose a crappy tailor. Maybe you choose a crappy fabric. Maybe the tailor had a bad day. Maybe the garment technically fits but doesn't "sing" to you.
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Choosing a good tailor requires a bit of work. You have to have a sense of what kind of silhouettes you like, what options are in your area, what are the reputations of those tailors, etc. It can require some sampling around to find "the one."
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I think of custom tailoring as analogous to finding a good restaurant, albeit at a much higher price point. You might read good reviews, but at the end of the day, you don't know if a restaurant is right for you until you go there and have a meal.
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If you go to a restaurant, you should also know what they specialize in. Just as you wouldn't order Chinese food at a Mexican restaurant, you shouldn't order an Italian suit from an English tailor. Knowing the difference requires thinking a bit about silhouettes and style.
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All this is to say: most people should try ready to wear first. The advantage of RTW is that you can put things back on the rack if you don't like it. By trying on different things, you can also get a sense of what you like or dislike.
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If at some point you want to go custom, this experience will allow you to find a tailor who makes the kind of silhouette you desire.
But it's CRITICAL to understand that custom doesn't automatically mean better. You can easily wind up with something worse than RTW.
But it's CRITICAL to understand that custom doesn't automatically mean better. You can easily wind up with something worse than RTW.
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There are some people who absolutely need custom for technical reasons. They may have an unusual build, at which point, they can't find what they need off-the-rack. But this subset of people is relatively small. You are unlikely to be in this group.
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Most people in this situation (e.g., "I'm going to a wedding and I want something SPECIAL") assume that custom means better when it does not. The most important part of a garment is the fit and silhouette. Focus on who can deliver that best.
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Everyone has their own unique fit issues and will need to find ways to solve them. For most people, that will be shopping off the rack and then adjusting the garment through alterations. If you go custom, do some research and understand it comes with some risk.
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The obvious questions: "How do I go about doing that research?" I write a lot about custom tailoring on my site (link in bio). You can also look up the tailor's Instagram page and click the "tagged" section. See if customers look good in their clothes.
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For RTW, I like the three shops in the link below.
Buying a suit requires a bit of time, research, and effort, which is why I strongly recommend starting the process as early as possible. Esp important for weddings, as there's an important date.
dieworkwear.com/2020/09/25/whe…
Buying a suit requires a bit of time, research, and effort, which is why I strongly recommend starting the process as early as possible. Esp important for weddings, as there's an important date.
dieworkwear.com/2020/09/25/whe…
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I forgot to add, the poor placement of this outbreast pocket is also an example of what happens when you are far from the block. Even if they adjust the block to fit your body, they may not adjust things like pockets. So the placement and proportions look off. Beware!
